Sunday, July 31, 2011

Sewing Project-How to make a Versatile Pillowcase Summer Top

The title of this post is a tad misleading, but it’s not dishonest, honest ;).  The reason I say that is because I called this a “pillowcase top”, but I didn’t make this out of a pillowcase. I titled it that because, as you’ll see, you could easily make this top for yourself out of a pillowcase. Initially that’s what I set out to do, but I couldn’t find any pillowcases in my house I liked enough to wear, so I used some fabric I had laying around. This fabric is something I’d been given and had been saving initially for my daughter. I figured I’d use it to make her something, but my daughter has TON of clothes, so me spending time making her yet, one more article of clothing she may or may not get a chance to wear seemed silly.  But me, well, I could always use another clothing item! So, here’s what I came up with. If you don’t know a thing about sewing, or don’t have access to a sewing machine, this is probably not something you’ll be able to do. If, however, you do have some basic sewing skills down, this should be fairly easy to follow.  

Here’s what you need: a pillowcase or about the same amount of fabric, a sewing machine and sewing accessories, elastic (I used ½”) , and lace or ribbon (optional)

1) Take your pillowcase, and open up all of the seams, cutting off the bottom "fold" portion. If you don't have a pillowcase like me, take your fabric (folded in half) and cut (2) rectangles similar in size to a pillowcase. You can use a t-shirt or top that fits you already as a basic guide for the length you need. Make sure to go a couple inches wider and longer for seam-allowance and the elastic, as well as just having some adjustment room. 

Rectangle of fabric cut (2)
  Step 2) Take both pieces of fabric and put them together with the wrong sides (printed side) facing each other and pin one side. This will be one of the side seams to your top. Then sew that side together. Take your half-sewn rectangle and put it on to get an idea of how much (if any) fabric needs to be cut from the other side. I personally didn't need to take any off, as I wanted mine to be a little bunchy. If it's too tight, you'll have a difficult time putting it on, and you'll have elastic pulling it all in later as well. If it's not gigantic on you, then go ahead and repeat this step on the other side, pinning and sewing that side together.
Side 1, pinned together
 Step 3) Start working on a hem on the top of your rectangle, all the way around by folding over the fabric a little bit (ironing helps this process), and then folding it over again (this time wide enough for your elastic to pass through). I used a seam gauge, but you can just eyeball it too. See step 4 and this will make more sense. You don't want the channel your elastic will pass through to have an unfinished end of fabric sticking out. It just wouldn't be as nice or hold up as well.
Measuring the first fold that will get folded under
 Step 4) This is continued from step 3. So after you folded it over about 1/4"-1/2" or so, fold it over again, closer to an inch this time (or wider than your elastic), and pin. That gap between the edge of the folded fabric and the pinned edge is going to be where your elastic will go. After you've pinned it all the way around, pick one side seam and leave a pin out of that one spot. You'll need an unsewn section to put your elastic in. I like to put a pin there sticking out a different direction to remind me as I'm sewing, so I don't accidentally sew there.
Channel for elastic pinned
 Step 5) After you've sewn your top seam, take your elastic and measure around your chest, just over your bust. Give yourself an extra inch or so, and cut it. Place a safety pin on the edge, and thread it through the gap on the side seam you left open. Make sure you secure the other end of the elastic to that seam of the top, so you don't accidentally pull it in too. Push the elastic all the way through the channel until you reach the other end you pinned outside. Safety pin the ends together and try your top on, adjusting how tight you want it by moving the safety pin around. When you get it to the desired fit (tight enough so you don't accidentally show off your girls to everyone), sew the elastic ends together, and then finish the gap in the seam you left open.
Seam sewn, elastic ready to be threaded through
 Step 6) Repeat this process (steps 3-5) for the bottom of your top. Try on your top, and play with the elastic length, and then sew it. Another great thing to do, is sew an additional couple of stitches over the elastic on both seams. This will help anchor down your elastic, so it doesn't twist on you later. That can be frustrating to fix!


Short stitch over the fabric & elastic to anchor the elastic on both side seams
  This is what your top should look like. Pardon the light exposure on this. I need a new camera.
 Step 7) This step is optional, but in my case it added a lot to my top. It's in the details! I had some lace that was vintagey that I just love, and some grosgrain ribbon-boy, do I have ribbon! Since this fabric was very sweet, and a little vintage, I thought it'd be nice to dress it up and showcase my lace! Starting at the top, and using a ruler, I secured (with pins) my lace and ribbon and played around with it, until I was happy with the spacing (also a good idea to try the top on while you're deciding where to put your trim). Then I sewed it down. I sewed the ribbon down on both sides, and the lace just down the middle of each.
 And Voila! Here is my finished project. This is a great top, because it's multi-functional. In the summer, it can be worn by itself, and in the fall and spring you can layer it with a cardigan, sweater or jacket.

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